Zihuatenejo was both a pleasure and a disappointment. We had heard so much about this small, Mexican city and were anxious to spend some time here. From the water the town is very pretty with palm treed beaches and a large, calm anchorage. Ashore the beach restaurants and bars are pleasant, the clubs and restaurants in town were lively, and the entire city is geared towards tourists from all over the world. It is a walking city with small streets and alleys, a large mercado centro, and many small stores selling t-shirts and souvenirs. We had one memorable dinner when we found an old restaurant that specialized in “pozole” the spicy Mexican soup that is the specialty of the state of Guererro. We dined in upper 80s temperatures (10 PM) eating soup that definitely had some kick. Crazy, but the complimentary Mezcal served with every dinner was a help. Late beers at the Sunset Bar on the beach also helped. We sat on the beach under a thatched roof watching our boat float calmly just 200 yards away. We could have swum home.
The disappointment in Zihua was the quality of the water in the bay. This was the worst water we had seen in our travels and, despite the constant temperatures in the 90s, we were unable to swim in the area. The bottom of our boat grew foul with marine life (or death), and although we enjoyed our time ashore we were uncomfortably warm with little hope of cooling off even on the boat. We elected to cut a few days off of our stay in Zuhua for the next leg of our sea passage where the ocean breezes would be a welcome change from the sweltering heat in the bay.
We had almost decided to bypass Acapulco (24 hours from Zihua) in favor of sailing all the way to Puerto Angel (another 40 hours south). Normally we like to limit overnights to one at a time, but we had heard many bad things about Acapulco from crime to dirty water to lack of anchorage or mooring space, but we had two good reasons for stopping and we thought we would make the decision when we approached Acapulco.
Our two reasons for stopping were (1) I had seen the cliff divers of Acapulco years ago on Wide World of Sports, and I really did want to see them live and (2) way back in 1945 Andrea’s parents had taken a delayed honeymoon trip (delayed by WWII) driving from Minneapolis to Acapulco. Driving from Minneapolis to Acapulco would be enough of an adventure now with highways, regular gas stations, etc., but we think it must have been a true odyssey in 1945 with limited roads, hard to find fuel, and a population that had not been exposed to the English language via TV and music. We had talked about this trip before and of course we had talked about Acapulco.
We approached Acapulco at 9 AM after a day of sailing and a long, dark night of motoring with just the stars. There are no other boats out here, no moon and, alas, no wind. We decided to pass on Acapulco and continue on to Puerto Angel thinking “we are young, we are fresh, why not?” when a quick check of our fuel tanks showed that without better wind we would either run out of gas or it would take us several days to sail the entire distance. Great decision. We loved the Acapulco stop as you will see.
We managed to get a mooring at the famous Acapulco Yacht Club and after a swim in the club pool, pina coladas at the club bar, and showers at the club spa (our first hot showers in over 3 weeks) we felt human again, This is a first class yacht club and they took good care of some second class boaters. Then it was off to walk the malecon and find the cliff divers. Acapulco is a huge city and it shows in the streets, the traffic, the air pollution, and the crowds so the long walk in the city heat was not a highlight. But we did find the cliff divers and for $3 each we got a place on the observation deck some 70 feet above the water and some 60 feet below the divers. The jagged cliffs are separated form the observation deck by a 20 foot wide arm of the ocean that surges with each incoming wave. The divers, 5 of them, entered the water on our side of the cove swam across to the cliffs, and then started climbing the rocks straight up. Just the climbing of the rocks was breathtaking. Barefooted, wet, wearing only bathing suits these guys climbed straight up the 140 foot cliffs Just watching them climb, knowing that the only fall would be onto the rocks, not into the water was scary. As cliff climbers they would have been worth the price of admission, no diving necessary.
But dive they did. Huge arcing swan dives out over the rocks and into the narrow slot of water at the bottom. They timed the dives from the top so that they hit the water when the waves surged into the cove. This seemed to require that they make their leap at exactly the wrong time, when the wave had surged out of the cove leaving little water behind. Fantastic. I don’t think I can adequately describe how high above the water the cliff divers were. We were on an observation platform halfway down the cliffs and I could feel the vertigo there. The divers perched on narrow rocks, wind blowing, looking at the ocean surge, and then leaping out and down were twice as high as we were. Muy loco Mexicans is the only way to describe these daredevils. Muy loco.
The Acapulco bus ride: We have traveled by bus frequently in Mexico. We take the buses everywhere and have seen La Paz,, Mazatlan, La Cruz, Puerto Vallarta, Manzanillo, and many other smaller towns via bus. We have had varying experiences. Some towns have small, crowded buses, some have modern air conditioned buses, most have buses with badly worn seats and shock absorbers, and the buses in Manzanillo were somehow built without any shock absorbers. We even had the memorable “suicide bus” in Manzanillo where we got a crazy guy at the wheel who apparently got to go home as soon as he could finish his route (he was fast, cut people off, drove up the sidewalks, and grazed at least one road divider). But Acapulco has our best bus memory.
We were walking back to the Club de Yates and looking for a bus for the two mile trip. We found a bus pulled up outside a small liquor store and asked the guy sitting in the driver’s seat in fractured Spanish if the Yacht Club was on his route. No luck. “Club de Yah-tays” apparently needs to be pronounced “Cloob de Yah-tays” for anyone to understand. Go figure. But from behind us a voice said “Si, this bus is for the Yah-tes”. So we get on . No one else is on the bus except the guy who couldn’t understand my question. We pay him our $.70 and sit down. A few minutes later the fellow who told us the bus went to the Yacht Club climbs on board with two quarts of beer in his hand. He proceeds to sit in the first passenger seat, gives the other guy a large cup of beer, and starts drinking. He is the driver. His friend he makes the designated driver and indicates he can take the bus. The regular driver is in the passenger seat, drinking from the bottle, the new driver having trouble shifting the bus is drinking beer from his own cup, and both of them offer us some of their beer. We are the only passengers. And awa-y-y-y we go. Apparently this is a non-stop. We pick up no one else. We wander down the road towards home. We wonder. Where are we going. The guy driving the bus does not know where the Yacht Club is, but his passenger directs him. At the Yacht Club the bus drops us off at its only stop, says goodnight, makes a u-turn, and heads back the way we came (maybe back to the liquor store). Whether we stole the bus or just had a private ride we don’t know. We do know that we were in stitches the whole way.
Finally the last Acapulco thought: This is a city and not the prettiest sight during the day, but back at the Club we could see all of Acapulco across the bay. The town sparkled. To say it was diamonds in the night is not enough. You couldn’t have decorated someplace as beautifully as this. Several hills had lights sparkling throughout. No clusters of lights like we have at home from the auto dealers were apparent. Everything looked like you’d want your Christmas tree to look. Incredibly beautiful and incredibly romantic, we sat on the boat for hours looking at the lights before bed. We had a great visit to Acapulco and now we are ready for the long sail to Puerto Angel.
November 28, 2008
November 20, 2008
Barra to Z-Town
We sailed into Barra de Navidad (19 11.5/104 40.5) at mid-afternoon (Monday, Nov 10) after a slow, relaxing sail from
There is a mega resort and marina at the lagoon entrance, and we were able to pick up their wireless signal so we were able to send the previous e-mail with a log of our travels from La Cruz to Tenacatita, and receive notes from all. We also picked up our first newspaper in several weeks and read some election news and sports for the first time in a long while. We did stick our heads into the marina at the Wyndham Resort long enough to see that (1) it is very, very nice and (2) it was way out of our price range, so it was back to the lagoon for us.
Barra de Navidad provided several entertaining items in addition to the sunset bars. We saw a tree with pelicans roosting in its branches. If you think the large Brown Pelicans are ungainly as they hit the water you should see them landing in a tree. First they weigh an awful lot for a bird. Also they have webbed feet, not the best for branch hanging. And of course they are the aforementioned “ungainly” birds. Imagine one of these landing in a tree. They hit the top branches and then try to grab just about anything while they are falling. This particular tree must have had about 50 of the big birds perched precariously throughout its branches staring dumbly as one bird after another landed, fell and then hung on.
We also managed to see the circus in Barra de Navidad. Throughout
Two nights in the lagoon was plenty so we set sail for Manzanillo at mid-morning. Again we got a beautiful sail in calm seas. We may be early in the season, but we are getting the best possible weather for sailing. We anchored first in
We stayed at Las Hadas long enough to catch up on the NFL scores using the wireless connection at Frida’s and on Monday morning (Nov 17) we set off on the 190 mile trip south to Ixtapa and Zihuatenejo. Even though we have a fast (as boats go) sailboat we plan our passages at 5 miles per hour. The boat will sail faster (regularly reaching 8 mph) and we can motor at over 6 mph, but when all the zig-zagging and slow sailing and motoring into the wind are taken into account we still only cover about 5 miles per hour so this trip was going to be a 36 hour passage. We left at dawn so that we could make the trip with only one overnight leg and two daylight legs and still arrive before dark. The boat sailed great and Andrea kept revising our arrival time from
The next morning we were greeted with a peaceful little beach with sparkling clear waters. The island is about 10 miles from Ixtapa, but only a short panga ride from a large resort hotel so there are small boats bringing tourists to the island for snorkeling and fishing. The boats that had gone out fishing early in the day also brought their passengers to the beach where the palapa restaurants were ready to cook the fresh catch. Our entire day consisted of snorkeling and a trip to the beach to drink beer in the shade (yes it’s still hot). At dusk all of the pangas left, all of the palapas closed, and the island, which has no electricity, was black and deserted. This made for a very dark but peaceful night on the hook.
After two calm nights at Isla Ixtapa we were ready to move on so today we motored the last few miles to Zihuatenejo (17 38.0/101 33.3). We are anchored off the beach and thinking about heading to shore to explore. More later.
November 10, 2008
La Cruz to Barra de Navidad
If you have the free Google Earth and are trying to find us check the lat/longs at the end of this message.
With some difficulty we finally arranged to have a new solar regulator purchased in San Diego and mailed to an address some 6-10 days in front of us. With this latest problem half way behind us (we still have to get the solar regulator and install it) we were ready to leave La Cruz and Banderas Bay.
We had a 19 hour trip to our next planned stop in Chamela Bay so we decided to leave La Cruz at 1 AM and arrive (hopefully) at Chamela around dusk. Night time anchoring or even approaching a strange anchorage in the dark is one of the sailing no-no’s. This would be our only trip in the first few weeks that could not be completed during daylight hours, and the 1 AM departure allowed us to sail with only 5 hours of pitch black darkness instead of a whole night. The 30 mile trip across Banderas to Cabo Corrientes (Cape of Currents) would take until dawn, but would have us rounding this Cape at the calmest part of the day. Good planning. What we got was brilliant lightning flashes for about two hours followed by torrential rain squalls that cut visibility to zero. But there was no one else out there, and we motored along nicely at 5 knots. Daybreak was beautiful. We were in deep, blue water and by 10AM we had great sailing winds from the beam. We set the boat south and sailed merrily along enjoying some of the best sailing of the trip.
Andrea was excited more by the dolphins than the sailing. Schools of dolphins raced along side of us throughout the day. At one point we had about 8 dolphins under the trampoline between the hulls. We turned on the motors late in the afternoon when the winds settled down and set anchor at 6 PM. We could hear the Mexican music from the beach while we congratulated ourselves on a successful passage. We were the only boat in the anchorage off this small beach village and, other than the Mexican Navy boat that pulled along side during the day we had seen no other boats on the entire trip from La Cruz.
A windless sunrise promised another warm day. Temperatures are constantly in the 90’s although the night time temps have dropped considerably and sleeping is much more comfortable. We moved the boat a few miles south to a small island in the bay and spent the afternoon swimming and snorkeling in turquoise waters before motoring back to our original anchorage for a peaceful evening off the Chemela beach..
By dawn three other boats had entered the anchorage, but we were ready to move on. Next stop the small cove called Careyes (named for the endangered Carey’s turtles that nest here). Careyes has two resort hotels, but they have roped off large portions of the cove for swimming and moorings for small excursion boats so there is little room to anchor. Still this was a pleasant stop with green water and colorful buildings.
After leaving Careyes we were treated to a long sail with good winds from the stern. We decided that sailing was the order of the day and we headed further offshore to keep the winds from blowing directly behind us. The catamaran sails well, but it doesn’t really like wind from directly ahead (duh!) or even directly behind. The sailing was superb. Blue water, dolphins, good winds and the boat moving smoothly, just like they advertise in the boat brochures.
This leg to Tenacatita Bay was only 15 miles, but we sailed nearly 30 miles to get there. We dropped anchor in the lee of a small reef with 3 other boats and, after introducing ourselves on a short dinghy ride around the anchorage, we invited everyone over to Manana for a round of cold beer. The group was from Norway, Vancouver Island, Dallas and, of course, Aptos, and we had a nice time talking about where we had been, where we were going, when we were going and why.
Is it Sunday morning? Beach campground was crowded last night. Looking for a reason we finally realized that it was Sunday and this was a weekend crowd. We dropped the dinghy in the water and took a long “jungle river tour” with another couple from CA. The river tour does indeed wind through mangroves and swamps, narrowing at times to less than a few feet, and with iguanas and butterflies in the trees, but the promised crocodiles never appeared (Much to my relief. You may recall my inordinate fear of huge crocodiles form last year’s posts.) Cruisers are warned not to let small dogs swim in the river because the crocs regularly feed on swimming iguanas. I guess the crocs here are near sighted because that would be one ugly dog. The river tour winds through the jungle for about an hour and ends in a lagoon where you can simply walk across the small beach to the ocean and, can you believe it, a palapa bar. Eureka!! We wined, we dined (well mostly we just drank beer and ate chips) for the afternoon before the return trip down river. An evening snorkeling on the reef finished out a beautiful day.
The anchorage is populated by three dolphins that seem to call this home. Two of the dolphins are paired and are seldom more than a few yards apart while the third dolphin is a loner who likes to hang around the anchor chains of the boats. Since he has a chunk out of his dorsal he has been named “Chip”. We were told about these dolphins before we reached this anchorage. They are friendly and always swimming around the boat very slowly and peacefully.
We are sailing slowly (less than 2 kts) south towards Barra at the moment and it is sunny, quiet, smooth water, slow, warm (hot). If you are reading this e-mail then we have reached Barra de Navidad which is the first place we will find internet access. Barra is about 140 miles from La Cruz, and it looks like it will have been about a 1 week trip to reach there.
Google Earth
First, set your Google Lat/Lons to decimal readings (it’s easier). Go to Tools, Options, 3dView and check the box Degrees, Decimal Minutes in the Show Lat/Lon section.
The following are degrees and minutes: Paradise Village 20 41.267/105 17.784; La Cruz 20 44.9/105 22.6; Chemela 19 35/105 08; Careyes 19 26.7/105 02.18; Tenecatita 19 18/104.50 (Jungle River behind beach); Barra de Navidad 19 11.5/104 40.5
With some difficulty we finally arranged to have a new solar regulator purchased in San Diego and mailed to an address some 6-10 days in front of us. With this latest problem half way behind us (we still have to get the solar regulator and install it) we were ready to leave La Cruz and Banderas Bay.
We had a 19 hour trip to our next planned stop in Chamela Bay so we decided to leave La Cruz at 1 AM and arrive (hopefully) at Chamela around dusk. Night time anchoring or even approaching a strange anchorage in the dark is one of the sailing no-no’s. This would be our only trip in the first few weeks that could not be completed during daylight hours, and the 1 AM departure allowed us to sail with only 5 hours of pitch black darkness instead of a whole night. The 30 mile trip across Banderas to Cabo Corrientes (Cape of Currents) would take until dawn, but would have us rounding this Cape at the calmest part of the day. Good planning. What we got was brilliant lightning flashes for about two hours followed by torrential rain squalls that cut visibility to zero. But there was no one else out there, and we motored along nicely at 5 knots. Daybreak was beautiful. We were in deep, blue water and by 10AM we had great sailing winds from the beam. We set the boat south and sailed merrily along enjoying some of the best sailing of the trip.
Andrea was excited more by the dolphins than the sailing. Schools of dolphins raced along side of us throughout the day. At one point we had about 8 dolphins under the trampoline between the hulls. We turned on the motors late in the afternoon when the winds settled down and set anchor at 6 PM. We could hear the Mexican music from the beach while we congratulated ourselves on a successful passage. We were the only boat in the anchorage off this small beach village and, other than the Mexican Navy boat that pulled along side during the day we had seen no other boats on the entire trip from La Cruz.
A windless sunrise promised another warm day. Temperatures are constantly in the 90’s although the night time temps have dropped considerably and sleeping is much more comfortable. We moved the boat a few miles south to a small island in the bay and spent the afternoon swimming and snorkeling in turquoise waters before motoring back to our original anchorage for a peaceful evening off the Chemela beach..
By dawn three other boats had entered the anchorage, but we were ready to move on. Next stop the small cove called Careyes (named for the endangered Carey’s turtles that nest here). Careyes has two resort hotels, but they have roped off large portions of the cove for swimming and moorings for small excursion boats so there is little room to anchor. Still this was a pleasant stop with green water and colorful buildings.
After leaving Careyes we were treated to a long sail with good winds from the stern. We decided that sailing was the order of the day and we headed further offshore to keep the winds from blowing directly behind us. The catamaran sails well, but it doesn’t really like wind from directly ahead (duh!) or even directly behind. The sailing was superb. Blue water, dolphins, good winds and the boat moving smoothly, just like they advertise in the boat brochures.
This leg to Tenacatita Bay was only 15 miles, but we sailed nearly 30 miles to get there. We dropped anchor in the lee of a small reef with 3 other boats and, after introducing ourselves on a short dinghy ride around the anchorage, we invited everyone over to Manana for a round of cold beer. The group was from Norway, Vancouver Island, Dallas and, of course, Aptos, and we had a nice time talking about where we had been, where we were going, when we were going and why.
Is it Sunday morning? Beach campground was crowded last night. Looking for a reason we finally realized that it was Sunday and this was a weekend crowd. We dropped the dinghy in the water and took a long “jungle river tour” with another couple from CA. The river tour does indeed wind through mangroves and swamps, narrowing at times to less than a few feet, and with iguanas and butterflies in the trees, but the promised crocodiles never appeared (Much to my relief. You may recall my inordinate fear of huge crocodiles form last year’s posts.) Cruisers are warned not to let small dogs swim in the river because the crocs regularly feed on swimming iguanas. I guess the crocs here are near sighted because that would be one ugly dog. The river tour winds through the jungle for about an hour and ends in a lagoon where you can simply walk across the small beach to the ocean and, can you believe it, a palapa bar. Eureka!! We wined, we dined (well mostly we just drank beer and ate chips) for the afternoon before the return trip down river. An evening snorkeling on the reef finished out a beautiful day.
The anchorage is populated by three dolphins that seem to call this home. Two of the dolphins are paired and are seldom more than a few yards apart while the third dolphin is a loner who likes to hang around the anchor chains of the boats. Since he has a chunk out of his dorsal he has been named “Chip”. We were told about these dolphins before we reached this anchorage. They are friendly and always swimming around the boat very slowly and peacefully.
We are sailing slowly (less than 2 kts) south towards Barra at the moment and it is sunny, quiet, smooth water, slow, warm (hot). If you are reading this e-mail then we have reached Barra de Navidad which is the first place we will find internet access. Barra is about 140 miles from La Cruz, and it looks like it will have been about a 1 week trip to reach there.
Google Earth
First, set your Google Lat/Lons to decimal readings (it’s easier). Go to Tools, Options, 3dView and check the box Degrees, Decimal Minutes in the Show Lat/Lon section.
The following are degrees and minutes: Paradise Village 20 41.267/105 17.784; La Cruz 20 44.9/105 22.6; Chemela 19 35/105 08; Careyes 19 26.7/105 02.18; Tenecatita 19 18/104.50 (Jungle River behind beach); Barra de Navidad 19 11.5/104 40.5
October 31, 2008
Puerto Vallarta - Paradise
Mañana at the dock in Paradise Village
As always - To remove yourself from this mailing list all you have to do is hit the reply button and type "Count me out, vagabond".
But for now try singing along... "All my bags are packed, I'm ready to go”.... Okay, no jet plane, but how about "I'm on the road again”.... No? Then "Sailing, sailing over the bounding main”... That's better. But maybe "Wasting away again in Margaritaville ..." hits just the right note.
Andrea and I are off on another "adventure at sea" and this year's starting point is Puerto Vallarta, Mexico where we left the boat floating peacefully at the Paradise Village marina while we weathered the Pacific hurricane season in sunny CA. Golf, farming, farmer's markets and, yes, income taxes, are only our summer vocations. For November and December we are sailors and this year we expect to cover about 1400 miles under sail as we move the boat from Puerto Vallarta, MX to Barillas in El Salvador.
If you'd like to follow along on this adventure I highly recommend the free Google Earth program that will allow you to zoom in on some of the prettiest beaches on the Pacific Coast. (Even if you don't follow our trip it's always interesting to see your own neighborhood from space). When the boat actually starts moving I'll try to provide some Lat/Longs (Latitudes and Longitudes) that will let you see exactly where we are in living color. AND, if we can ever get the camera working on a regular basis I will try to include some photos. Just type Google Earth into your search engine.
We arrived back in Mexico on October 21. The first three days were devoted to un-storing the boat, which is all the things we did last June only in reverse. Sails back on, running rigging replaced, engines commissioned, dinghy pumped up, lots of cleaning and polishing... and all in 95 degree heat with 95 percent humidity. Seems Mexico is having an "exceptionally" hot October. We do try to stay hydrated, but there may be a limit to the number of beers that can be consumed in a day. We haven’t found that limit, but it may exist… theoretically. The pool helps.
We are reconnecting with other cruisers we met last year in Vallarta and other anchorages on our trip south from San Diego. Since their plans and boats will take them in all directions from here (except east, see the aforementioned Google Earth). Many of them will sail north to revisit the Sea of Cortez or to return to CA, OR, WA and Canada while others will sail south at a faster pace than us, and we will not likely see many of them again. For right now it’s a large party of “where are you going, when are you leaving, how long will you be sailing, what do you need to fix before you can go?” people.
The weather cooled perceptibly by the weekend (October 25) and made everyone much happier. We have only two items hanging over our heads before we can actually cast off. First, of course, is the fact that our insurance agent won’t let us move south until after November 1. That is the official end of hurricane season and despite the fact that we can all see that there are no Pacific storms right now EVERYONE is waiting for November 1 to start moving (lest you hit a whale and find the insurance company wiggling out of the repayment because you were somewhere you weren’t supposed to be. The second item is a problem with our solar panels. Right now they are not properly charging our batteries. The boat is run entirely on solar power (lights, radio, navigation equipment, refrigeration, engine batteries) so without them we are lost. The fact that ours aren’t working should not be a problem… for an electrician. I, on the other hand, am not an electrician, and until I can find an English speaking one I will continue to have this “problem” for at least a few more days.
We did take a vacation from our vacation to go on a snorkeling trip to the southern beaches of Banderas Bay. Banderas is the 3rd largest bay in North America (yes, I can name the others) and has over 120 miles of shoreline. We booked a trip on a large motor catamaran that offered breakfast, lunch, snorkeling, beach party, and an open bar for the entire 8 hour trip, along with a cruise past Vallarta and a running history of the bay. Snorkeling in Banderas and Mexico is definitely NOT to be confused with the spectacular snorkeling in the Virgin Islands, but the water was warm (85 degrees), filled with fish, and had reasonable visibility.
We also got a quick history lesson about Puerto Vallarta from the time the Spanish entered the bay over 400 years ago. The most interesting part of the lesson was when our guide pointed out the 5 cornerstones of Mexican culture that exist in almost every town in Mexico. We had seen all of these in our travels, but we had never thought of them as any more than “what’s there”, certainly not as part of the culture. Each town has a church and right next to it a city hall, a nearby flea market, a school, and a plaza (usually with arches). The church is there because of the importance of religion (in this case the Catholic religion) in Mexican culture. The city hall because this is the power, and the flea market that is the economic heart of the Mexican culture. (In many small towns there are no stores other than the “tiendas” (very small food stores) and the occasional “ferreteria” or hardware store. There are no clothing stores, shoe shops, record (CDs?) stores, etc. (all of the stores we would expect to find on Main Street in any US town. All of the goods these stores supply at home are traditionally sold via the flea markets throughout Mexico. The schools are for the children who are a large part of the Mexican population and, finally, the plazas which are the very center of the Mexican social life. The plazas are the place for to meet your friends, sit with your family, play with others, and just enjoy watching life. They are the center of the community. We have found that every time we wander into a new village we too immediately seek out the plazas.
Back to the task at hand. Today is La Dia de Muertes throughout Mexico and tomorrow is our planned departure date. We have already sampled our Pan de Muertes (baked only for this one day each year) so I guess that damn battery is our last obstacle. The first few stops are merely anchorages along the Pacific (Ipala, Chemela, Carreyes) so no internet access for at least a week. Check Google Earth at Lat 20 41.5 /Long 105 17.5 for Paradise Village. Then move down the coast to Lat 20 14 for Ipala, 19 34 for Chamela and 19 26.5 for Careyes. No Longitudes given, just move along the shore line.
June 1, 2008
Adventures in Mexico
We were sitting in La Cruz de Huanacaxtle wondering how to solve our motor problem when the idea hit me… ignore the motor and rent a car. Let’s see the world while we’re still young. So that is exactly what we did. We called the local Hertz people (here they are called Amigo) and rented a small, underpowered, high mileage junker for a trip into the mountains of Mexico. Gualadajara (second largest city in Mexico, population four million) was our destination. We took along a cooler of beer (in case every second building along the way wasn’t a tacqueria), filled the tank with some inexpensive Mexican gas, grabbed the map and headed east.
The first very pleasant surprise was that as we headed uphill the temperature seemed to drop accordingly. Guadalajara is at about 5000 feet and the humidity that had been killing us for the past two weeks seemed to disappear as we climbed. Although daytime temps were still in the 80’s the relief was dramatic. Depending on whom you ask Gualadajara is either 3 hours or 6 hours from Vallarta. For us it was at least six. We had been told to skip the free road and pay the tolls, but our logic was that we wanted to see more of Mexico. We took the free road. We saw all of Mexico. The road was good, two lanes, well paved, and it went up, down, around, over, back around, and through every small hill and mountain from Vallarta to Gualadajara. We finally figured out that the toll road was the 3 hour trip, a lot less miles, a lot straighter.
Our first destination was the town of Tequila. In addition to being the reputed site of the first license to make the stuff in Mexico Tequila also has an abundance of TEQUILA TOURS!!! We checked into a beautiful, little hotel right on the main square and enjoyed an evening on the town. Tequila is a lot like the towns in Napa and Sonoma. Essentially this is a farm community where the primary crop is the Blue Agave plant. After a while the process of making the Tequila, tasting tequilas, comparing tequila became as big a part of the community as growing the agave. There were many, many tequila tasting bars and small tequila shops. We took the tour at Jose Cuervo, the oldest and largest distiller. Exactly like a wine tour from the crush to the fermentation, bottling, and aging through to the tasting room where (en espanol) we were shown how to sniff, swirl, look for the legs, taste, etc. One difference, of course, after the 3rd tequila you had a much better buzz than your average pinot noir.
One thing that struck us on the wine tour was the weight that rules carry in Mexico. The very first announcement on the tour was that ABSOLUTELY no cameras, cell phone videos, etc. would be allowed inside the factory. They announced this twice. Spanish and English. At the first stop, the unloading of agave, EVERYONE on the tour started taking pictures, and they continued to do so throughout the tour. Go figure.
Tequila was also the first indication that our Spanish language skills were not progressing as well as we thought. We now found ourselves in places where no one spoke any English at all. In Vallarta the waiters, bus drivers, merchants and hotel clerks all spoke some English, but now we were on our own and our Spanglish was not going to cut it. Yes, we could still get a beer, but only if we could see the beer sign from where we were standing. God forbid we should need directions. Some word games: In Spanish the two words ”jeugo” (game) and “jugo” (juice) sound pretty much the same. Of course I hardly ever mix up game and juice at home so I might have been a little careless in my pronunciation, BUT… we are sitting at breakfast. WeI have just asked for coffee, scrambled eggs and bacon (all in impeccable espanol), and apparently some “orange games”. You think the waiter could help me out? No. He looks like I just ordered a slice of green, moon cheese, stares at me, looks confused, calls another waiter for help (not an English speaking waiter by the way), and still they can’t figure out the remote possibility that I am looking for orange juice with my breakfast. I gotta keep practicin’. “Topos” are tortilla chips, “topes” are bumps in the road. I have also tried to order road bumps with salsa with little success. I do tell myself that part of the problem is that Spanish is such a fast language, but apparently it is just my brain that is on slow.
All over the country they have installed speed bumps (topes) in lieu of hiring cops to enforce speed limits. I have now driven over thousands and thousands of speed bumps. They are everywhere. If you are going 30 miles per hour you will come to a 20 mph speed bump. If you are driving 60 you will come to a 40 mph bump. No matter what your speed, no matter where you are, count on the bump just ahead. Even in our small car they had the ability to launch the car several inches off the ground. The bump was what you got when the car bottomed out on the non-existent shock absorbers. The second most prolific business in Mexico (after taquerias) is the ubiquitous “Llantera”, the tire repair shop. There are several in every small village and most are located immediately adjacent to the speed bump. Warnings? Of course they warn you about the speed bump. There are actually two ways. On the slower roads there are usually two white rocks stacked next to the speed bump. Assuming you see these in time (and assuming the local llantera hasn’t removed them completely) you should be able to slow down in time for the bump. At higher speed they put up a sign (right at the bump) that says “Reductor de velocidade”. Let’s just say that the first few times I saw that sigh at 60mph I was still translating that into English when the car left the ground. I’m a lot quicker now.
We drove on to Guadalajara the next day (on the toll road) and stayed in a smaller suburb of Tlaquepaque. This town had two squares and a beautiful “avenue of artisans”. It was lots of high end crafts, silver, restored antiques, art, paintings and sculptures. All of these along a street that was restored homes with courtyards and high walls. As you walked into each shop or restaurant you found yourself in a private park with flowers, trees, fountains and, of course, art for sale. A very nice experience. Next to Tlaquepaque was the town of Tonala. We were lucky enough to visit Tonala on the day of their very famous market. Largest open air market you can possibly imagine. Everything for sale and, I think, thousands of vendors. Tlaquepaque was also where we saw the police out in force, armed with automatic rifles and ready to fight off the revolution. The reason? Soccer game between Guadalajara and Monterey. Bars were packed with people, overflow ran out the doors and into the streets, and most of the fans were men drinking beer. Same as the NFL except we don’t usually see the police in riot gear with machine guns even for the Giants/Patriots.
Guadalajara is a major city and we were content to ride the tourist bus around town and have the historic sites explained to us. One exception was the Governor’s Chambers where we were escorted through the premises by a native Mesquite Indian... who spoke seven languages fluently (including Japenese). The building was the meeting hall for the state parliament for many years, and Guadalajara was the site of much of the political turmoil in the 19th and 20th centuries. Two incredible murals by the Mexican painter Orozco reflected the politics of Mexico and the progress of independence in this country. Our guide had a wealth of knowledge and an unbelievable enthusiasm for the history of his country and his people.
Enough of Mexico for now, but I did want to finish with the crocodiles. (Picture attached). We stopped in La Manzanilla when we returned to the Pacific coast of Mexico. At the end of a small street there was a river that was cut off from the sea by a sand bar/beach across the mouth. La Zona de Crocodilos. I walked up to the fence at the end of the street, and scared the piss out of myself when I looked into the lagoon and saw 10 to 15 of the largest crocodiles I had ever imagined. Big suckers. 15 feet long, huge bellies and tails, and heads with at least 3 feet of teeth and scales and eyes. Oh, yeah. The eyes were looking at me! If I had been asked to imagine the biggest crocodile in the world I never would have imagined one that big, and there were a dozen of them. Absolutely the scariest things I have ever seen. I will never swim in fresh water in Mexico, ever!
Long e-mail for not much travel at this end, but we wanted people to know what we were up to and that we miss all of you.
May 13, 2008
La Cruz de Huanacaxtle
We finally pulled the plug on Marina Vallarta and sailed across Banderas Bay to La Cruz. The length of the trip (12 mi) and our destination in La Cruz (we visited there often last winter) were hardly monumental, but it was more the idea of slipping the lines and going somewhere, anywhere that appealed to us. We did have a memorable evening in Vallarta before we slipped out. We chose Brando’s, an Aptos Club like bar that was having their weekly BBQ for our last night. Conveniently Brando’s was located right at the end of our dock. We were well into the evening when the guest chef lit the wood BBQ with a giant, propane flame thrower. Looked a little like a WWII movie just before the tank disappears. BBQ produced a great burger, however, and the entertainment was just beginning. For the next hour we were treated to dueling mariachi bands. Since we were the only bar with much activity both bands chose the same venue for their nightly concert. First the Mexican polka mariachis from one band, then the mariachi ballads from the other band. Back and forth, entertaining, and all the while we were trying to pick a favorite. The winner emerged when one of the mariachis switched to Credence Clearwater. Hard to beat “Who’ll Stop the Rain” on an accordion.
The following morning we sailed out of Vallarta and across the Bay to a rolling anchorage, but at least we were at sea. We find ourselves managing about an hour and a half of work on the boat each morning before the heat hits us and then we go sailing. We have had some perfect morning sails, mile after mile with no sail changes and the boat flying across the water (at least as much as you call traveling at 8 mph “flying”). And every afternoon like clockwork the winds pick up to 20-25 mph and the water froths with short choppy swells. Then we practice reefing the sails to slow everything down a little.
We spent four nights anchored out taking advantage of the cooler evening breezes and the privacy of boat at anchor before we decided to head into Marina la Cruz for some company with the other boats and sailors. Unlike our previous visit in December there are few people (touristas) in La Cruz in May. Both here and Vallarta we noted that everything is much quieter, there are fewer Americans, and things move at a much slower pace. We dined one night in old Vallarta at a very highly recommended restaurant (Repollo Rojo, The Red Cabbage) and we were the only two customers they had for the evening. Food and service were great. We have also had cocktails at a mirador (view bar sitting on the cliffs) in La Cruz and lunch at Senor BonBons where again we were the only customers. Quiet.
We are still trying to solve our motor problems and that is keeping us in the Bay for longer than we had intended. The solution may ultimately be to return to the US in June and smuggle new parts back to Mexico during the summer. With better planning we might get the right parts this time.
As I type this note we are trying to arrange a car rental that will allow us to spend a few days off the boat exploring more of Mexico. We would like to drive to Guadalajara and Tequila and maybe Tepic to see more of the Mexican mainland and to get away from the coast and into the higher elevations. I am indeed a true Californian at this point because I am so accustomed to our low humidity at home that I find the combination of heat and humidity to be stifling. My east coast relatives would laugh.
The picture attached is a view from El Faro (the Lighthouse) overlooking Marina Vallarta. At the top, center of the picture you can see our little catamaran bobbing peacefully among the mega yachts.
Hasta Manana,
Tom and Andrea
The following morning we sailed out of Vallarta and across the Bay to a rolling anchorage, but at least we were at sea. We find ourselves managing about an hour and a half of work on the boat each morning before the heat hits us and then we go sailing. We have had some perfect morning sails, mile after mile with no sail changes and the boat flying across the water (at least as much as you call traveling at 8 mph “flying”). And every afternoon like clockwork the winds pick up to 20-25 mph and the water froths with short choppy swells. Then we practice reefing the sails to slow everything down a little.
We spent four nights anchored out taking advantage of the cooler evening breezes and the privacy of boat at anchor before we decided to head into Marina la Cruz for some company with the other boats and sailors. Unlike our previous visit in December there are few people (touristas) in La Cruz in May. Both here and Vallarta we noted that everything is much quieter, there are fewer Americans, and things move at a much slower pace. We dined one night in old Vallarta at a very highly recommended restaurant (Repollo Rojo, The Red Cabbage) and we were the only two customers they had for the evening. Food and service were great. We have also had cocktails at a mirador (view bar sitting on the cliffs) in La Cruz and lunch at Senor BonBons where again we were the only customers. Quiet.
We are still trying to solve our motor problems and that is keeping us in the Bay for longer than we had intended. The solution may ultimately be to return to the US in June and smuggle new parts back to Mexico during the summer. With better planning we might get the right parts this time.
As I type this note we are trying to arrange a car rental that will allow us to spend a few days off the boat exploring more of Mexico. We would like to drive to Guadalajara and Tequila and maybe Tepic to see more of the Mexican mainland and to get away from the coast and into the higher elevations. I am indeed a true Californian at this point because I am so accustomed to our low humidity at home that I find the combination of heat and humidity to be stifling. My east coast relatives would laugh.
The picture attached is a view from El Faro (the Lighthouse) overlooking Marina Vallarta. At the top, center of the picture you can see our little catamaran bobbing peacefully among the mega yachts.
Hasta Manana,
Tom and Andrea
May 6, 2008
Yatista Two Step
Buenos dias, amigos. In case we forgot to tell you we have begun our spring/summer sailing trip, and this is the first of our e-mails to let everyone know what we are doing. As usual you can just click reply and tell me you could care less about our “vacation”, and we will drop you from this mailing list.
We flew from San Jose to Puerto Vallarta, Mexico on April 29 to pick up sailing where we left off last winter when we went home to work for a few months. Our trip was delayed slightly because I insisted on waiting until after the Apple City Amateur before we could leave town. From my point of view the wait was well worth it because I am now the reigning 2008 Apple City Net Champion. Yes, I won the tournament with a nice 75 in the final round. I am a happy golfer, if not a happy sailor. Andrea has not yet shared my enthusiasm for this accomplishment, but I am sure that if I keep telling her all about the round she will grow to appreciate the grandeur of the award.
If you want a carefree vacation I have a piece of advice… Don’t take a boat with you. We have been in Mexico for a week now, and we are enjoying everything about Mexico except the sailing. Why you might ask? Because the boat has had one problem after another, and we are still cleaning, repairing, ordering parts and paying $$. None of this sounds like swimming, partying, exploring or sailing does it?
We are doing what I call the Yatista Two Step. This is the popular boating dance that goes two steps forward, one step (or more) back. We arrived to find that all of the work scheduled for February (repairs from last year’s adventure) had yet to be started as promised. In addition the very valuable lower drive shaft for our motor which we had painstakingly smuggled into Mexico in a golf bag was the lower drive shaft for someone else’s motor, certainly not ours. Wrong part, no solution available, no motor. Well, only one motor. Because we are a catamaran we do have another motor tucked away in the other hull, and it was this second motor which was going to allow us to sail away even with a less than complete propulsion system. Alas, when we dropped the boat in the water the “good motor” failed to start.
After some emergency repairs to allow us to get to the marina it took us another two days to find the electrical short which had caused this problem. And finally (because I know some of you have already nodded off) we discovered that a part from the “good motor” had disappeared over the winter. We mysteriously lost the choke lever from our unlocked motor well which also caused the motor not to work . Backup motor to the rescue again, but that backup motor looks woefully incomplete without a drive shaft, choke lever and whatever else we will cannibalize from it in the next few weeks.
We also discovered that we made a significant error in judgment leaving the boat in a working yard for the winter. The decks are stained and filthy and they are taking lots of elbow grease and rubbing compound to clean up. Andrea is headed up the mast tomorrow to try to clean the 50 or 60 feet of the boat that we can’t reach easily. Of course the cleaning might not be so bad if it weren’t 90/95 every day. That’s 90 degrees and 95% humidity. Tengo calor.
So what else have we been doing our first week in Mexico? We had a very nice hotel room overlooking the marina for the first 3 nights (pool included), and we have enjoyed some fantastic Mexican bars and restaurants. Our old favorite Victor’s still offers $1.50 beers (free shot of tequila with every beer), we found Brando’s (home of the Jumbo Double Margarita for $2.00) and, lest you think all we do is drink here in Mexico, we discovered El Coleguita which serves fish soup, large seafood dinners (think 30 or more shrimp), dessert, Kahlua and cream AND free tequila for under $10.00. Hard to beat a place that puts a fresh bottle of tequila on the table for the two of us. Next week we are definitely ON THE WAGON.
Jay, Linda, David and Angela… we had breakfast on Sunday with Fox who owns Café Roma where we had lunch with you last December in Viejo Vallarta. He was dining alone and shared his table with us in a crowded restaurant.
We will be out of Marina Vallarta by the end of the week and if all goes well we will be sailing south for the next 30 days. We expect to visit Mexico’s Gold Coast with stops at Chemela, Barra de Navidad, Tenecatita, and perhaps Zihuatenejo along with several smaller towns and bays. Our goal is still the Panama Canal, but now we are discussing how to get there sailing only two months at a time and trying to avoid both the summer heat and the prospect of hurricanes. Minor adversities are behind us. The world is our oyster and we are off.
We flew from San Jose to Puerto Vallarta, Mexico on April 29 to pick up sailing where we left off last winter when we went home to work for a few months. Our trip was delayed slightly because I insisted on waiting until after the Apple City Amateur before we could leave town. From my point of view the wait was well worth it because I am now the reigning 2008 Apple City Net Champion. Yes, I won the tournament with a nice 75 in the final round. I am a happy golfer, if not a happy sailor. Andrea has not yet shared my enthusiasm for this accomplishment, but I am sure that if I keep telling her all about the round she will grow to appreciate the grandeur of the award.
If you want a carefree vacation I have a piece of advice… Don’t take a boat with you. We have been in Mexico for a week now, and we are enjoying everything about Mexico except the sailing. Why you might ask? Because the boat has had one problem after another, and we are still cleaning, repairing, ordering parts and paying $$. None of this sounds like swimming, partying, exploring or sailing does it?
We are doing what I call the Yatista Two Step. This is the popular boating dance that goes two steps forward, one step (or more) back. We arrived to find that all of the work scheduled for February (repairs from last year’s adventure) had yet to be started as promised. In addition the very valuable lower drive shaft for our motor which we had painstakingly smuggled into Mexico in a golf bag was the lower drive shaft for someone else’s motor, certainly not ours. Wrong part, no solution available, no motor. Well, only one motor. Because we are a catamaran we do have another motor tucked away in the other hull, and it was this second motor which was going to allow us to sail away even with a less than complete propulsion system. Alas, when we dropped the boat in the water the “good motor” failed to start.
After some emergency repairs to allow us to get to the marina it took us another two days to find the electrical short which had caused this problem. And finally (because I know some of you have already nodded off) we discovered that a part from the “good motor” had disappeared over the winter. We mysteriously lost the choke lever from our unlocked motor well which also caused the motor not to work . Backup motor to the rescue again, but that backup motor looks woefully incomplete without a drive shaft, choke lever and whatever else we will cannibalize from it in the next few weeks.
We also discovered that we made a significant error in judgment leaving the boat in a working yard for the winter. The decks are stained and filthy and they are taking lots of elbow grease and rubbing compound to clean up. Andrea is headed up the mast tomorrow to try to clean the 50 or 60 feet of the boat that we can’t reach easily. Of course the cleaning might not be so bad if it weren’t 90/95 every day. That’s 90 degrees and 95% humidity. Tengo calor.
So what else have we been doing our first week in Mexico? We had a very nice hotel room overlooking the marina for the first 3 nights (pool included), and we have enjoyed some fantastic Mexican bars and restaurants. Our old favorite Victor’s still offers $1.50 beers (free shot of tequila with every beer), we found Brando’s (home of the Jumbo Double Margarita for $2.00) and, lest you think all we do is drink here in Mexico, we discovered El Coleguita which serves fish soup, large seafood dinners (think 30 or more shrimp), dessert, Kahlua and cream AND free tequila for under $10.00. Hard to beat a place that puts a fresh bottle of tequila on the table for the two of us. Next week we are definitely ON THE WAGON.
Jay, Linda, David and Angela… we had breakfast on Sunday with Fox who owns Café Roma where we had lunch with you last December in Viejo Vallarta. He was dining alone and shared his table with us in a crowded restaurant.
We will be out of Marina Vallarta by the end of the week and if all goes well we will be sailing south for the next 30 days. We expect to visit Mexico’s Gold Coast with stops at Chemela, Barra de Navidad, Tenecatita, and perhaps Zihuatenejo along with several smaller towns and bays. Our goal is still the Panama Canal, but now we are discussing how to get there sailing only two months at a time and trying to avoid both the summer heat and the prospect of hurricanes. Minor adversities are behind us. The world is our oyster and we are off.
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