We finally pulled the plug on Marina Vallarta and sailed across Banderas Bay to La Cruz. The length of the trip (12 mi) and our destination in La Cruz (we visited there often last winter) were hardly monumental, but it was more the idea of slipping the lines and going somewhere, anywhere that appealed to us. We did have a memorable evening in Vallarta before we slipped out. We chose Brando’s, an Aptos Club like bar that was having their weekly BBQ for our last night. Conveniently Brando’s was located right at the end of our dock. We were well into the evening when the guest chef lit the wood BBQ with a giant, propane flame thrower. Looked a little like a WWII movie just before the tank disappears. BBQ produced a great burger, however, and the entertainment was just beginning. For the next hour we were treated to dueling mariachi bands. Since we were the only bar with much activity both bands chose the same venue for their nightly concert. First the Mexican polka mariachis from one band, then the mariachi ballads from the other band. Back and forth, entertaining, and all the while we were trying to pick a favorite. The winner emerged when one of the mariachis switched to Credence Clearwater. Hard to beat “Who’ll Stop the Rain” on an accordion.
The following morning we sailed out of Vallarta and across the Bay to a rolling anchorage, but at least we were at sea. We find ourselves managing about an hour and a half of work on the boat each morning before the heat hits us and then we go sailing. We have had some perfect morning sails, mile after mile with no sail changes and the boat flying across the water (at least as much as you call traveling at 8 mph “flying”). And every afternoon like clockwork the winds pick up to 20-25 mph and the water froths with short choppy swells. Then we practice reefing the sails to slow everything down a little.
We spent four nights anchored out taking advantage of the cooler evening breezes and the privacy of boat at anchor before we decided to head into Marina la Cruz for some company with the other boats and sailors. Unlike our previous visit in December there are few people (touristas) in La Cruz in May. Both here and Vallarta we noted that everything is much quieter, there are fewer Americans, and things move at a much slower pace. We dined one night in old Vallarta at a very highly recommended restaurant (Repollo Rojo, The Red Cabbage) and we were the only two customers they had for the evening. Food and service were great. We have also had cocktails at a mirador (view bar sitting on the cliffs) in La Cruz and lunch at Senor BonBons where again we were the only customers. Quiet.
We are still trying to solve our motor problems and that is keeping us in the Bay for longer than we had intended. The solution may ultimately be to return to the US in June and smuggle new parts back to Mexico during the summer. With better planning we might get the right parts this time.
As I type this note we are trying to arrange a car rental that will allow us to spend a few days off the boat exploring more of Mexico. We would like to drive to Guadalajara and Tequila and maybe Tepic to see more of the Mexican mainland and to get away from the coast and into the higher elevations. I am indeed a true Californian at this point because I am so accustomed to our low humidity at home that I find the combination of heat and humidity to be stifling. My east coast relatives would laugh.
The picture attached is a view from El Faro (the Lighthouse) overlooking Marina Vallarta. At the top, center of the picture you can see our little catamaran bobbing peacefully among the mega yachts.
Hasta Manana,
Tom and Andrea
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