The decision was made to run for the Rio about two weeks earlier than planned. We do not have an SSB radio for weather reports so we are dependent on other boats to get us the latest information. Best guess was that a short weather window would allow us to reach the Rio Dulce River before some very strong winds settled into the area for a long stretch. Bad weather for us is not rain, but wind. Wind on the nose is not good even in sunny, blue skies, and when our buddies on Silver Sea and Salida said “go” that was good enough for us. The Rio, or rather 26 miles up the Rio, will be the boat’s summer home for the 2012 hurricane season. We left Roatan, Honduras at 8 AM for a 24 hour trip to Livingston in Guatemala. The trip was marred by the aforementioned winds that came up early the following morning PLUS the fact that Salida was struck by lightning just two miles ahead of us on the crossing. Minor electrical damage and some frayed nerves was all that was reported, but it gave us pause for thought.
Livingston is the port of entry on the Carribbean coast of Guatemala and after a quick check-in in a driving rain storm we motored into the river. The lower river winds through steep canyons with thick jungles on each side. This canyon was the scene of numerous Tarzan movies and it is a truly awesome sight. Texan Bay was our first stop in the river allowing us to anchor just before dark. Because the crossing to Livingston was a little rougher than expected we spent several days relaxing here before motoring on. Again our buddy boat Salida had all of the excitement. On our second night in Texan Bay they were boarded by two young men with evil intent. Fortunately these “pirates” fled as soon as they were confronted. Salida put out a call to us since we were anchored only a few hundred feet away, but the intruders were gone before we could respond. Guatemala has a bad history for crime and violence, and this may be the first place on our entire trip where we have felt a little uncomfortable. We will not be anchoring on our own in this river.
The town of Fronteras aka Rio Dulce proved to have at least one danger on a par with the pirates. This one road town lies at the foot of the lone bridge that crosses this extensive river system. I can’t call it a one cow town however because the road is a shipping lane for dozens of cow transport trucks each day that move bovines from field to field and field to slaughter. The real danger in Fronteras is the cows! Packed tightly on the trucks, one facing left the next facing right, with tails against the rail side boards on both sides, the cows regularly “shoot the shit”. The street is a walking disaster. The danger here is being too close to the passing cow trucks when the shit hits the fan… so to speak. I’d rather the pirates.
The river is thick with small marinas for the cruising boats, attractive vacation homes and motor yacht for the wealthier Guatemalans, and waterfront restaurants for all. River life is a stark contrast between the small canoes that fish the river daily and the expensive boats that we call home. You can see women washing clothes on a rock in the river just around the corner from your favorite tiki bar. A remarkable contrast.
We moved the boat into Mario’s Marina on June 1 and spent the next several days enjoying happy hours, good food and a cool pool ashore while we cleaned and repaired Mañana after a long sail. We have found waterfalls for swimming and smaller rivers to explore by dinghy and always another cold beer to help us pass the time. Mario’s provides an armed guard on the dock all night long. Paradise?
Unfortunately the weather is extremely uncomfortable right now with temperatures in the 90s and a heat index of over 110 each day so the pool is a godsend, but it will take a change of venue to really cool things off. Our next adventure will be a week long road trip into the Guatemalan interior before we head home.
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